An Alaskan Adventure: Tracing Family Roots and Making New Memories

July 10 – 17, 2022

“Alaska is a place of raw beauty, where the majesty of the wild meets the resilience of the human spirit. It’s a symphony of soaring peaks, endless horizons, and the kind of silence that only untouched wilderness can provide. It’s a place where magic is real, and it’s waiting for you in every golden sunrise and every starlit mountain peak.” – Unknown

When I was seven years old, my grandparents took me to Alaska. It was the first time I had ever been on a plane and away from my parents for such a long period. As the oldest of 15 grandchildren, I was the first to embark on this journey with them. Over time, this trip to Alaska became a rite of passage for almost all of their grandchildren, and when my grandparents finally reached an age where flying no longer suited them, they used their Alaska Airlines miles to send others on the trip.

My two-week trip with them took place in July 1996, and more than 25 years later, I can still recall everything we did. Over the years, I’ve come to realize that this trip was incredibly formative for me. These first memories of Alaska, and of traveling, are near and dear to me. I believe it was this trip that planted the seed that would grow into my never-ending desire to travel and perhaps, even, the germination of generations of curious-minded ancestors before me.

Alaska is where my father was born. My grandparents left their birth towns in Nebraska to build a life, and the infrastructure of the Alaska Territory, together. It was 1958, and Alaska would not receive statehood until January 3, 1959, to become the 49th state. Today, many of my cousins, aunts, and uncles still reside there. I was excited to see Alaska through their eyes, but especially through those of my parents, who, like my grandparents had also moved to the state as newlyweds 35 years ago.

In fact, that was one of the reasons for this trip, to celebrate my parents’ 35th wedding anniversary. The six of us; my parents, three sisters, and I, were going together, to finally match the stories we’d heard all our lives to the place that made them.

We ascended from the “lower 48,” how Alaskans refer to the other continental states. Though we all flew from my childhood home in Washington State, we arrived on three separate flights. Abbie, Bayli, and I took the 3.5-hour Delta flight from Seattle to Anchorage, while mom and dad flew Alaska Airlines, and Lauren flew Alaska Airlines from Pullman. We arrived at Ted Stevens International Airport, one of the top five busiest cargo airports in the world, within an hour of each other. We had enough luggage for a month rather than the mere six days we’d spend there. We grabbed two taxis and headed for downtown and our hotel for the night, the Marriott Anchorage Downtown.

It was 11 am on a Sunday (Alaska is 4 hours behind NYC), and we were in need of caffeine, not just for the ritual but to mitigate any lack-of-caffeine bickering so early into the trip. The town was quiet on this sunny day, but a Google Maps inquiry led us to the bustling That Feeling Co. A few blocks walk away, we found the building that also houses a juice bar and a bakery; it was a godsend and perfectly placated each of our unique palates.

We were grateful and happy to be in Alaska; the last time the six of us traveled together was in 2012, a full 10 years prior. For years, we had talked about this trip, and it was finally happening. It was one of those trips you talk about but are afraid will never happen. With daughters who are adamant travelers, however, and with the opportunity to travel on mom and dad’s dime dangling in front of us, there was no question we’d make this a reality. We shared the first Google Doc itinerary in early 2021, and a year and a half later, here we were.

Caffeinated and fed, we walked to the town square in search of the trolly tour. The trolley is the best way to get introduced to Anchorage and the history of Alaska: history, wildlife, and culture, their website says. We passed by landmarks, innovative homes that withstand the frigid winters, fencing that keeps moose off the roads, Earthquake Park, and my favorite, the hundreds of seaplanes on Lake Hood. In the lower 48, most people use a car to get around, but in Alaska, many have their own seaplane. Our trolley guide, Jenny (I think her name was), explained that most people who move to Alaska do it for the love of the beautiful outdoors. To properly explore said outdoors, one needs a plane. She was planning to build her own for a few thousand dollars, a simple life-size version of a model aircraft kit she insisted, and would get her pilot’s license, a relatively routine practice, as common as getting a driver’s permit, if you grow up in the “The Last Frontier” state.

After our formal introduction to Anchorage, it was only fitting we found our way to 49th State Brewing Company. Being a Sunday afternoon, it was quite busy, so we walked around downtown while we waited, stumbling upon the Captain James Cook statue, “navigator, explorer, chart maker, scientist, humanist, he had peacefully changed the map of the world more than any other single man in history.” While looking out over the Knik Arm and Cook Inlet, we read the storyboard about the tallest mountain on the continent, Mount McKinley (original Athabaskan name Denali) which rises four miles into the sky and is taller than Mount Everest when measured by vertical rise from base, rather than from sea level.

Monday morning, we made our way to the train station to board the Alaska Railroad Denali Star Train. This is the railroad’s flagship route and for 50 years was the only way to get between the two largest cities, Anchorage (pop. 292,545) and Fairbanks (pop. 33,018). We were going first class with GoldStar Dome service, upper-level seating in a dome window car for the best views, complete with a GoldStar pin, meals, and beverages. The views were impeccable and the food quite good given the tight space it’s prepared in, and the service was wonderful.

On every trip I take, I try to read a book that relates to the place. For this adventure, I picked up John Muir’s Travels in Alaska. I carried this book everywhere but did not read a single page. Instead, I was taking in the scenery or visiting with family, a fair tradeoff. It’s now in my library, and I plan to pick it up again one day.

The sky was somewhat smoky but not enough to completely distort our views of the land, river, and mountain range. Only 30% of visitors are able to get a glimpse of Denali, the coveted 30% club, so we weren’t too disappointed when we fell into the majority. Like most Alaska Railroad passengers, we opted to stay a night “in” Denali National Park.* We opted for the Denali Bluffs lodging, a hillside set of log cabin rooms overlooking the river and toward Denali National Park. We had a few hours to settle in and eat before our 9 pm Midnight Sun Adventure ATV Tour. 

*Within the park, lodging is limited to a handful of privately owned, remote wilderness lodges, with most visitors staying just outside the entrance. Read how to choose here. 

Our hotel shuttle dropped us at the base of the hill to explore the long row of restaurants and shops, busy with all the other overnighters like us. We had planned to eat at Prospectors Pizzeria and Alehouse but apparently, everyone else had the same idea and we had failed to make reservations in advance, which is recommended. The grouchiness was in full effect and we needed to eat stat. Luckily, the charming Moose-AKA’s was just a few doors down and was able to seat us within 15 minutes. Serving Eastern European and Serbian food, it stood out among the usual American-style offerings and was a nice reprieve, not to mention the owner and her staff were beyond hospitable.

We lathered on the mosquito repellent, added an extra layer of clothing, and boarded the shuttle for our ATV excursion. On the 25-minute drive, we saw a moose leisurely drinking from the pond it was standing in, our second sighting of the day. We reserved two 3-rider Viking ATVs for the 2-hour trail excursion. Our guides were incredibly knowledgeable about the area, the land, and the history. We navigated up, over, and around the Alaska Range, Otto Lake, and the Healy Valley, and sped through a creek to stop for views of glacial moraines.

Though it was still light out, it was finally time for indoor lights out, that is, the room darkening shades, around 1 am. Tuesday morning rolled around, and we were up early to check out and board the shuttle to the Denali National Park entrance; we had several hours before the Denali StarTrain would arrive again at 4 pm and bring us to our final destination, Fairbanks.

“Denali is wilderness at heart.”

In 1917, Congress recognized Denali by setting aside 2,000,000 acres to create a national park, and in 1980, legislation expanded the park and designated the original 2,000,000 acres as wilderness, meaning it is among the least-disturbed wildlands in America and makes up one of the largest continuously protected areas in the world.

When you arrive at the entrance, I highly recommend going to the Denali Visitor Center where you can browse the two-story exhibit and learn a ton about the history of the park, its inhabitants, and its vital role as a living laboratory. Not to mention, the exhibit designers did a wonderful job creating a learning experience, and even have a sense of humor.

Depending on how much time you have, or how much walking you want to do, there are several trail options in the surrounding area. We opted for the Spruce Forest Loop, an easy 20-minute wander through the boreal forest, followed by lunch at the Morino Grill and shopping at the park gift shop.

Back aboard the Denali StarTrain, we had four hours of golden-lit wilderness to gaze upon. At precisely 8 pm, as promised, the train pulled into the Fairbanks Depot, and the first of our family members were there waiting to greet us. We piled into our rental Suburban for the week and went straight to The Pump House for some welcome beers. The Pump House is a charming, historic restaurant situated on the Chena River, renowned for its delicious Alaskan seafood, warm hospitality, and stunning views. Then we were off for a sunny, midnight bedtime at our VRBO along the Chena River.

On Wednesday, we started our day with a visit to the Fountainhead Auto Museum. The collection of over 85 antique cars, all in pristine condition, is stunning. The museum was a fascinating journey through the history of the automobile, showcasing the evolution of design and technology over the years. As a bonus, we were all captivated by the vintage fashion exhibits that accompanied the cars, providing a snapshot of the era each vehicle represented. We had worked up an appetite, so we stopped by Firehouse Subs Old Steese for delicious sandwiches, lining our stomachs before heading to the only place to be at 3:00 pm, HooDoo Brewing Company.

In the afternoon, we took a short drive to the town of North Pole. Yes, it’s a real place, and yes, it’s as charming as you’d imagine. Here every light pole and sign sits atop candy cane-wrapped poles. We visited the Santa Claus House, a Christmas-themed store that operates year-round, a place I had last visited with my grandparents when I was seven years old. It was a whimsical experience, complete with reindeer, meeting Santa and Mrs. Claus, and a letter-posting service to Santa. We drove by, capturing glimpses of the home my dad grew up in and past North Pole Elementary where he attended school as a young boy.

For dinner, we headed to nearby Pagoda Restaurant, a local favorite known for its Chinese and American cuisine, and a Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives honoree! The food was delicious, and the restaurant’s history, dating back to 1953, added a nostalgic charm to our dining experience. After dinner, we drove to College Utilities Corporation, where my dad worked summers in his early 20s, helping build out the essential utility systems that would bring water to residents and help Fairbanks expand and grow. Back in Fairbanks, we met our cousin Togi for a nightcap at his bar, The Library. The Library Bar & Bites in Fairbanks is a cozy, book-themed pub with an extensive selection of drinks and unique decor that makes patrons feel like they’re unwinding in a well-stocked personal library.

On Thursday, we decided to capture a few family photos along the river before grabbing lunch at Pike’s Landing, a popular riverside restaurant and lounge. In the winter, people arrive via snowmobile! 

That afternoon, we embarked on the Riverboat Discovery tour. The three-hour cruise along the Chena and Tanana rivers was a highlight of our trip. We were treated to stunning views of the Alaskan wilderness, visited a recreated Athabascan Indian village, and even watched a bush plane take off and land on the river. We also got to see the home and kennel of the late four-time Iditarod champion Susan Butcher, Trail Breaker Kennel, and learn firsthand about kennel life and the challenges that go into making a champion dogsled team. Dave and Tekla Monson, Susan’s husband and daughter, shared stories of life on the trails as puppies played in anticipation of joining the team. It was a truly Alaskan experience. Afterward, in the gift shop, Lauren and I stepped into the “Alaska at 40 Below” freezer, and we all stocked up on Captain Jim’s canned Alaskan smoked salmon, the key ingredient to our grandma’s sought-after salmon dip that is quickly devoured at every family gathering. 

We stopped back at the house to refresh ourselves and play a round of cards (Rummy), before heading to cousin/aunt Di, Lou, and Bev’s home for a homecooked meal complete with all of the yummy salads and desserts (scotcharoos) we’ve grown up with our entire lives plus the addition of Togi’s fabulous grilling skills, serving us delicious tri-tip steak sandwiches. 

Around 10pm, Togi took my sisters and me for a spin in his vintage Cadillac Eldorado convertible and dropped us at Goldie’s, a funky outdoor place to have a fun drink served out of the window of an Airstream. Abbie, Bayli, and I decided to make it out to one more bar, meeting up with cousin Di for a few rounds of beer and Fireball shots, singing country music along with the jukebox, before calling it a night.

Friday brought more exciting discoveries and family history. We visited Pioneer Park, a 44-acre city park that offers a delightful journey into Alaska’s past, featuring historic buildings from the gold-rush era, a native village exhibit, and a vintage carousel. It’s a hub of activity with museums, art galleries, a miniature golf course, and even a narrow-gauge train that circles the park. It felt a little rundown and in need of some love, but it was a good way to fill an hour. Next, we made our way to Golden Heart Plaza, a scenic riverside park in the heart of downtown, known for its iconic “Unknown First Family” statue, beautiful flower gardens, and as a gathering place for community events and festivals. Here we would look for and find the names of my grandparents, my dad, and his siblings listed as one of the founding families.

The walk through state and family history had earned us a beer, and we found ourselves at Latitude 65 Brewing Co. We sampled beers and ciders and played cards to pass the time until our next item on the agenda, baseball. 

The Alaska Goldpanners of Fairbanks are a storied amateur baseball team, known for their competitive spirit and for hosting the annual Midnight Sun Game, a unique event played without artificial lights around the summer solstice – we had missed it by just a few weeks! Over the years, the team has produced numerous Major League Baseball players, further cementing its reputation as a significant contributor to the sport in Alaska.

After a Goldpanner win, the only logical thing to do was cruise on out of town and into the forest to the Howling Dog Saloon. The Howling Dog is a lively, rustic-themed bar known for its live music, eclectic decor, and vibrant atmosphere that captures the spirit of the Alaskan frontier. Our group of 12 had a great time, and the night was just getting started. After a few rounds of drinking and swing dancing, the young ones of the group headed back into town for line dancing at The Spur.

After a night of dancing and drinking, the only logical thing to do is soak up the hangover with a family brunch, and we were doing it in style at Ivory Jacks. With its walls adorned with local art and memorabilia, and a reputation for live music and events, it offers a truly unique dining experience. Aside from playing cards together, we also love playing pull tabs together. To date, it’s inevitable that one of us pulls a big winner, and on this day, it was Laura who pulled the $500 tab! Thus, she kindly paid for everyone’s brunch.

With full bellies, we drove to Gold Daughters. Run by two sisters who are passionate about Alaska’s gold rush history, and happen to be friends of the family, they offer a hands-on activity that combines education, adventure, and the chance to take home a unique souvenir. We were so grateful to visit and enjoy the unique experience of gold panning – I highly recommend visiting! Under the guidance of our cousin Nona and one of the sisters, we learned the techniques and tried our luck, filling our buckets from a freshly brought-in pile of dirt and sifting it through in the water trough. While we didn’t strike it rich, the thrill of the hunt and the glimmer of gold flakes in our pans was reward enough. Each of us purchased a locket that now hangs around our necks and holds the flakes of gold we each found while panning.

Around 6 pm, the six of us made our way to our final dinner of the trip, a classic upscale dinner at The Turtle Club. The Turtle Club is a long-standing local favorite, renowned for its prime rib, seafood, and warm, welcoming atmosphere – oh, and one of those really great salad bars reminiscent of the 90s. The experience is complete with rustic decor, friendly service, and some of the best food in the area.

Throughout our stay in Fairbanks, my sisters and I were constantly amazed by the beauty, history, and culture of Alaska. From the fascinating museums to the unique experiences like gold panning and the riverboat experience along the Chena, every day was an adventure. But more than the places we visited, it was the time spent with family, the shared experiences, and the memories we created that made this trip truly special. 

Although we knew prior to our arrival that Alaska held a special place in our ancestry, as we said our goodbyes and boarded our flights to the lower 48, we realized that without question Alaska had now also left an indelible mark on our hearts.

xo,

C

Additional places we would have liked to have visited if we had the time.

I would have loved to visit the Chena Hot Springs, and Aurora Ice Museum, take a day or two to drive to the Arctic Circle, and make it to The Hungry Robot, Lavelle’s Bistro, and Arctic Harvest Farm Distillery. We would have also visited the Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitors Center, which is a wealth of information about the local culture, history, indigenous peoples of Alaska and wildlife, the gold rush era, and the state’s unique ecosystem.